Month: June 2011

  • The end of Hope Street

    The end of Hope Street


    For the better part of a decade, at the east end of Hope street, lay an impressively large industrial building that seemed utterly hopeless.

    History:
    The exact industrial history of this warehouse is, sadly, a bit of a mystery to me at the moment. What we do know is that in the 1980s it was mostly in use as artists lofts and small businesses.

    The lofts were, at the time, on the very fringe. A comment via Brownstoner tells the story well:

    I am one of the original tenants who moved into Hope Street in 1993 – after the last real estate crash. Kalamon Dolgin, specifically Neil Dolgin couldn’t give it away fast enough. He even put in gas jet heaters so I could live there. No one wanted to live there, and I had been living in Williamsburg since 1988, so this was a step up. I had crack addicted prostitutes passed out on my door, There was incredible drug dealing, murders outside my window and where the gallery is on the corner of Hope and Marcy was a luncheonette where the retired guys would gather, there were scads of feral cats, the first pigeons with West Nile started dying on the roof, and also I watched 9/11 and the Twin Towers go down from that roof. A former porn actress who wound up doing business deals with Dolgin (one slut to another I liked to think) lived there with her homicidal boyfriend. We were terrorized by the super, the former gang leader of the neighborhood who stole our packages, forged our checks and occasionally attacked tenants who did not know-tow to him, My floor was 6000 square feet and over the years we had a gallery, sculptors, artists, actors, writers, notable people. We really, really used the space. The temperature in the winter in the uninsulated building would go down to the 40’s. We bundled up in sweaters and dealt with it.

    Also, this was one of the staging grounds to rewrite the NY City amended loft law, which almost, but did not quite pass though the bill was written and it went all the way up to what was then was Governor Pataki, Joe Bruno and Sheldon Silver, but in the way of horsetrading, our bill was traded away at the last moment. It was a good fight, we lost but had a number of planning meetings there with the bill’s lawyers, and rezoning happened and we all got evicted. The water got turned off, electric, you name it. A huge number of the people in that building left NY, not all, but a lot of them. We did not receive a buy out. We did go on rent strike and that helped pay the legal fees.

    The guy who bought it for 26 million for Dolgin (it had been the first building in their empire, as Old Man Dolgin let everyone know he had shoveled coal) was a decent sort who lost his shirt. He was a small time developer who got in over his head. I often wonder how it went for him, because obviously he got bankrupted.


    The last line of the comment refers to how often the property changed hands in the last 5 years.
    With so much money vested, won and lost via these various ‘developers’, it was a given that sooner or later some kind of residential conversion would happen with this property. We’ll get to that in a moment.

    Aside from being one of Williamburg’s early artist loft spaces, this building also made the news when it was repeated tagged up by then-infamous street artist Neckface.For further reading on that fiasco, and how the gangsta building super wanted to kill him for it, check out this CityNoise post – which saved a copy of the NY Daily News article

    The hope street warehouse was also home to the “65 hope st. gallery” – which, if you google, returns loads of results for artists who exhibited their work in this space.

    On the business side, I was only able to track down one company that resided in this location: Z & L Trading Corp – which apparently was a tannery (!). As one customer commented: “I have used Z & L Trad Corp. 65 Hope street Brooklyn NY 11211 for tanning bears for rugs. I have had good luck with them as long as the bear is well taken care of in the first place.”

    As a personal footnote, I have vague memories of attending some party in this building while it was still lofts. The fact that I don’t quite recall the details probably tells of what a good time this place must have been during the newly gentrified years, before the evictions.

    Adventure:
    Located on a previously deserted street, this building was always easy to get into. Completely emptied of everything, this building presented itself as one of the few rare utterly boring locations in NYC. Nothing really interesting to photograph, a decent if not predictable view from the rooftop, and little by way of interesting graffiti (outside of some stuff in the basement). The fact that I came and went from this place numerous times over several years without bothering to post about it show how uninspired this place was from a illegal partying/exploring perspective.

    Present:
    As of my time in writing this, work has finally begun on the residential conversion. The good news is that this majestic old industrial building will not be torn down. The bad news is that it will soon house 117 one bedroom and studio “apartments”. It will also only have 11 parking spaces. I guess they are aiming to rent it onto to unshowered, bicycling riding hipsters. The fact that the community board rubber stamped such a short amount of parking for a building that will probably contain at least 200 residents is a little ridiculous. Basically they’re converting it into a dorm. Surely they will need to pack in as many residents as they can to make some money off this building. A few owners and many millions lost in speculation, this building is a sad tribute to the real estate industry in NYC, though with it’s exterior still intact, it will also serve as a reminder towards the industrial days of NYC, and the bad old days of the neighborhood – when crack and gangs were king and the white people were either bold or stupid.

  • Enter the Dragon

    Enter the Dragon

    Just happened to stumble upon this, while in the general area (alright it was on my radar for a while, but I completely forgot until now).  Saw that it could be an easy spot to get into and I kept it in mind for later that night.  As my plans for the night fell through as usual, I made the journey back to check it out.

    This building will house much needed science labs for a fast growing and renewing college campus anxious to shed it’s banal institutional image with a host of new architecturally significant structures.  The focal point here will be a full height atrium with a soaring spiral staircase.  Should be real impressive when done.

  • Quatro Concrete: The Abandoned Cement Truck building

    Quatro Concrete: The Abandoned Cement Truck building

    It’s not every day you come across a building filled with abandoned cement trucks. When you do, you keep your mouth shut on where it’s located.

    Adventure
    One of our minions down at the research department was surfing satellite images and raised questions as to what the hell this place was. It seemed abandoned enough, so it made it onto the to-do list and was picked up along with a few others in the immediate area.

    Upon arrival, there’s zero people around, and that’s not surprising – because there’s really nothing else around here. Making our way over concrete blocks and aggregate mountains, eventually we slide down into a lot full of rusting old machines. This stuff hasn’t seen any action in decades.

    Making out way forward we go towards the real target – a huge abandoned warehouse style building. Having read the report on this dump, My personal assumption would be that it would be empty and boring. Boy was I happily wrong.

    Instead we found a large supply of old cement mixers and related parts – and a clue to this buildings deeper history. The windows – the ones still in place that is – are painted in a crazy mix of colors. High on one wall is a painting of kids playing basketball. At the far end of the building, a basketball hoop hangs high. Clearly, this place was once a gym. But for who? and when? There’s no schools over here, or churches, or anything else, for that matter.

    Upstairs we find a row of battered ancient filing cabinets. All are empty. There’s a touch of graffiti, dating back to the 1980s – a very rare archaeological find considering how little original graffiti exists today.

    On a desk in the corner is an address book – all hand written. In it there’s not just names of business contacts, but where the owner of this book met said people. It seems to be the address book of the owner of the cement company. Curiously I thumb through it looking for older relatives of people I that might have ended up in a book like this – though sadly it seems they never crossed paths. (Would have been a pretty amazing find on a personal level if there was a connection).

    Satisfied we had seen it all and shot everything worth shooting, it was off to the next location. Someday we’ll get around to getting the exact history of this place – but definitely not today. It’s bright and warm out, and there’s the ever present to-do list, with 4 more spots to hit before day’s end. Such is the weekend grind around here – and so it goes.

  • The Goss Hotel

    The Goss Hotel

    History
    The Goss Hotel opened in 1919 and eventually grew to become a sprawling campus resort. After the original owner died in the 70s, coupled with a lack of interest from younger clientele looking for a different vacation experience than what The Goss offered, the hotel shut down in 1986.

    Adventure
    Today, this location attracts visitors of a different sort – those looking for a vacation that enters a world of decade and depravity, where destruction and decay are seen not as blight, but an attraction worth traveling hours by car to see.

    Located in the middle of nowhere, this is a lawless place. Abandoned and exposed to the elements, some buildings here have collapsed, while others are left for the picking by scrappers and vandals.

    Some parts of this property are outright dangerous – piles of crap are everywhere – ceilings falling in, holes in floors. Not a place for the faint of heart.

    Other sections are brilliant, and a must see attraction. The pool area is an amazing biology experiment all of it’s own – with plants growing across a mossy damp floor. The main lobby is another location of intrigue, as evidence in ‘new’ walling highlights some of the renovation work done in te 1980s meant to help reopen the hotel. This of course never happened, leaving the sprawling room as an illicit canvas for notorious interior decorators to experiment with styles.

    All in all, the Goss is not to be missed. See it now, before it caves in on itself.

  • “UE”, just what the hell is it, anyway?

    “UE”, just what the hell is it, anyway?

    “UE” is a lot of things to a lot of people. There seems to be a slowly brewing actual social debate about this, which seems rather silly to me (since exploring is basically sown into every fiber of my being). Nonetheless, it’s out there, and it’s time to talk about it.

    For a starting point, let’s take Bradley Garrett’s recent piece on the topic. Brad’s piece here doesn’t really define what ‘UE’ is so much as argues against what some in law enforcement and corporations believe it to be. I’m going to reference this essay a few times in this post, it’s worth reading – I don’t hate it at all – I will make some counter points though, which maybe highlight how ‘ue’ is different in NYC than many other places – in fact UE, being a location centric hobby – by it’s very nature means that different parts of the world will view it different than others. The difference in exploring in NYC vs Paris vs say, Detroit, are huge. You can push a truck out of a window in Detroit. Chances are if you can even find a place to do that in NYC, NYPD will be on your ass immediately.

    Corporate America
    The corporations (while trying to use it to market products) think it’s some clandestine party scene, with raves held in underground spaces – as depicted in this Converse commercial. In many ways they’re 100% right. UE, at least in NYC, is occasionally the best party scene in town. Examples? We’ve got those, going back years. The Swatch/Tyke subway tunnel parties. The 2002 LTV invitational. The Ryder Nights, The 2005 Tennis Invitational, The 2006 Christmas invitational, and even the 2010 (ill)legal BKC/LTV warehouse decorating party (too criminal for the internet). Then there are all the Dark Passage events, EVER.

    The above is just a quick mental reference list of NYC UE parties. In the UE world beyond NYC, there’s been a long tradition of party-like meetups. ‘NEOPEX’, ‘OPEX’, ‘CoalFest’. And there have been games, like the Deggi5 Great Race. These happen across the globe. Paris is well known for it’s underground lifestyle, along with Australia and basically anywhere there is a hole int he ground.

    So YES, “UE” COULD be defined as having a fun loving, probably illegal, drinking insane party element to it. But that’s just a small part of it. Most people exploring aren’t doing that every weekend. And even those that are, certainly are not doing so in Converse’s cloth, flimsy sneakers. They’re not doing so with sponsorships from alcohol companies. They’re not charging admission.

    Law Enforcement
    ‘The man’, of course, has a very different perception of what ‘urban explorers’ are. Let’s turn back to Brad:

    A few weeks ago, within days of each other, two urban exploration crews were arrested inside urban transportation networks inspiring “terror alerts” (one in the NY Metro and the other in the London Tube). Both were running the tracks to locate and photograph disused stations on what are essentially live lines.

    Now before I go further, I want to point out that in the NYC case, the explorers – some friends of mine – were not in an active subway tunnel trying to locate any abandoned stations. They already knew there were no stations in that isolated segment of tunnel. It also needs to be pointed out that it was only one very paranoid citizen who thought it was terrorism related. Once the police found and apprehended the explorers, they realized very quickly that it was just a bunch of guys with cameras getting their urban nerdhood on. One or two very right wing, extremely ridiculous news outlets ran with the story and made it seem like significantly more of a big deal than it was. This was by far not the first time an explorer has been arrested in NYC with a slight presumption of terrorism being at play. In each of those previous cases those arrested walked away with at worst 23-36 hours ‘in the system’ (under arrest, waiting to see the judge). Far more common have been the cases where officers simple threw desk appearance tickets at explorers (mostly to meet their quota), and the results in court always being no more than a 50 buck fine, 6 months ACD, or a cranky old white judge looking at you and asking ‘what are you doing here?’ before throwing the case out.

    Law enforcement officers more or less can tell who’s a bad person and who isn’t. Unfortunately in some jurisdictions those officers face quotas, whereby they need to make arrests or give out desk appearance tickets. A lot of explorers in NYC have had to deal with this quota issue more than they have bad treatment at the hands of the law.

    In other places, where there is no Quota, officers are probably a lot more realistic about trespassing. If you’re at some rural mental hospital or factory, chances are if they show up at all they’re just going to think you’re strange and ask you to leave.

    Brad goes on to say this: “by treating citizens with such an active interest in the inner workings of our cities as potential terrorists, we risk radicalising a largely apolitical movement—which is what I suspect is starting to happen right now.”

    Apolitical? Uhm. No. In fact I’d say, depending on one’s geo-location and amount of contact with the law, those explorers exposed to police harassment/detainment/fines are rapidly being radicalized due to the ridiculous laws against their hobby. Any explorer that is ‘apolitical’ at the moment simply hasn’t ever had to deal with the US justice system yet. Let me show you another wisp of steam from the NYC Exploration Experience.

    In 2004, the NYC MTA decided they would try to ban photography in the NYC subway system. This ridiculous new rule (and subsequent threats of arrest and harassment) was far more than any smart minded person with any interest in transit (be it exploring or just a simple love of trains) was willing to stand for. We lead a protest against it. We started a petition, we sent it in, mail, fax, email. City hall, City Councilmen. We front paged newspapers and shut the MTA’s illogical right wing ‘ban those photographer terrorists’ down. Even Mayor Bloomberg came out on our side, and eventually the ACLU finally woke up to it being an issue and stood on the correct side of history. The MTA rattled the saber a little more but knew their rule was unenforceable, alienating a public that already hates them, and significantly more trouble than it was worth. They backed down.

    When your hobby, your source of fun, is threatened with direct legal action, you are left no choice but to make a large political statement. Slowly but surely, this will probably happen more and more in ‘UE’. And that’s a good thing. We need to speak up for ourselves, and not let others fill in those blanks on to meet their own agendas.

    Let’s face it. Trespassing laws are by and far stupid and illogical. They seem mostly designed to protect property owners from lawsuits against anyone who may get hurt doing something stupid on their property without authorization. I propose a new system: Let those ‘no trespassing’ signs stand. Let the law behind them be amended: If a property has no real security, it should assumed no one cares about it and there is nothing of value there for anyone to steal. If you’re caught there and told to leave and don’t – arrest or fine or whatever. If you’re not caught there and either die or get injured doing something stupid: It’s your fault. You can’t sue anyone. You decided to go into that tunnel, building, cave, etc. YOU are responsible for your own actions. The laws should be written this way, because really, that is the only way civilized society has ever actually functioned. I’d love to start a petition for this myself, write to politicians, start a fucking movement. Maybe I will if there’s enough interest. The point is that, at some point, as more and more people ignore those ‘no trespassing’ signs, the more and more ridiculous they will appear. Just like the ‘war on drugs’, the war on explorers is a complete waste of time and money. Shouldn’t cops be out arresting real criminals that want to rape murder and rob others?

    This is probably an extreme view to some, but so was legalizing marijuana for a long time. In the same way that laws against marijuana are wasting our time and resources, so too eventually will any crackdowns on ‘UE” be viewed. It’s pretty hard to convince the public that a bunch of people having largely ok, safe fun and educating themselves about how things work is a bad thing. If anything, the governments should be giving more tours of power plants, water works, etc – because the public is very clearly curious. There’s a demand for it. A demand even dumb corporate PR people are trying to market against.

    The People:
    And finally, we get to the people. Laypersons. People who don’t know what the hell a UE is – never heard of it. What do they think it is?

    Mostly, it seems they either love it or hated, depending almost entirely on personal experience and how the media presents it. If the media outlet presents the story favorably (see: Underbelly), it’s a smash hit. Everyone wants to see the location and know everything about it. If it’s presented unfavorably, that’s when the public blindly assumes it is a bad dangerous evil hobby that everyone needs to stand up against.

    The Future:
    The future of exploring, how it’s defined and perceived by the public, is ultimately in the hands of those going out exploring every weekend. I wouldn’t be true to my punk roots if I didn’t suggest that it is up to us to either write our own stories for media outlets (and be paid for our time as journalists) or push them away. When the press knocks on my email box, I do my diligence to find out what their angle is. If it’s a positive one, and I have the time (which is rare) I’ll work with them. If they want to do a story about how UE is just one huge underground orgy, I’ll either ignore them or subvert their story so that if it ever does get past the editors, they’ll be hard pressed to get their next writing gig. This is not to say that the media doesn’t sometimes get it right. ‘Off limits’ on the travel channel ain’t half bad, and shows the nerdy adventure side of the hobby well.

    Even then, there will always been the fringe characters of any hobby. There are those who explore just to loot places of relics and scrap metal. There are those who ‘explore’ just to find a place to drink and party outside of the arm of the law and society. Those who explore just to find awesome places to create otherwise illegal murals. Exploring (let’s drop the ‘urban already – 75% of people that call themselves ‘urban explorers’ don’t live in cities) is a big wide field of people that like going places they’re not suppose to. I’ve met people from every end of this spectrum, and for the most part have learned something from all of them. And to me, that’s what exploring is. It’s about self-directed education – hands on, in the field – learning how my city works and looks, from the deepest tunnels under NYC to the tallest skyscrapers, and everything in between. It’s about meeting some really weird, really interesting people, and pushing your mental and physical limits. This is not a hobby for anyone seriously close minded, who believes in strict rules. Unless you’re going into a seriously dangerous location, throw out any rules and preconceived notions of what UE should or should not be – and just enjoy each place for what it is.

    In the end and on a day to day basis, I could a flying F what the media, corporations, the law or society think about my hobby. The only thing I’m concerned with is making plans for where I’m going next. How am I getting there, how am I getting in, who should i invite? Whatever the outside world thinks of what I do is more or less irrelevant. I probably speak for a lot of people when I say that the only way anyone else will stop be from exploring will be if they can pull my camera from my cold dead hands.

    -Control. 2011.

  • Montreal 2010

    Montreal in the summer. For some really strange reason the whole town was bogged down in a thick damp blanket of humidity.  Rains poured down with zero notice, as the skies stuck in a gray cloud of moisture inducing madness.

    Getting out and about to shoot graffiti was an occasional challenge, fortunately though, there was plenty of it. Montreal’s just smart enough to have many awesome permission walls and ghetto enough to have many forgotten edges around town where tags and throwys are easy found and/or created.

  • Air Suicide Spots

    The year was 1990, and AIR GZ was a queens terrorists.

    AIR seemed to come out of nowhere. You woke up one day, took the train to school, and there he was, dominating suicide spots all over Queens Plaza. These were spots involved climbing along beams high above the streets, out in the open where any cop could roll by and spot what you’re up to. You’d have to be a crazy motherfucker to hit most of these, and that is what AIR did.

    And if that wasn’t enough, AIR beefed with other top notch writers, waging open warfare on anyone that went near any of the non-suicide spots he hit. You’d go by one day, and there’d be a BISE throwy, or maybe a quick SEUS piece. Next day, there’d be air throwys all over it. Battles would go back and forth for a long while. His mantra of ‘You Can’t Win’ struck fear in the hears of toys who dared not cross AIR’s path.

    Just as suddenly as AIR came along, he was gone. For 20 years though, his suicide spot domination reigned supreme along the N / 7 Queens Plaza subway superstructure. Only recently did the MTA begin to repaint all of these beams, wiping away the last vestiges of this forgotten era in Queens Graffiti History.

    I present these photos, of course, to keep that memory alive, and to inspire the young ones out there. Remember If you can see a spot, you can find a way to paint it.